Run the cable through the eave or soffit
A small hole through the soffit or eave lets the cable go straight into the attic, close to where the unit mounts. The soffit is thin, so it is easier to drill than a wall, but it hides wiring and vents, so look from the attic first.
What you need
In the box
- 25 ft outdoor-rated Ethernet cable (50/100 ft upgrades available)
- PoE injector
You provide
- A drill and bits that suit the soffit material
- A flashlight, and a stable ladder
- A weatherproof grommet or exterior-grade sealant
- UV-resistant cable ties or clips
If you need a longer run, use outdoor-rated, pure copper Cat5e or Cat6 cable, up to 300 ft in total.
Test it first
Before you drill, run the cable through a window, power the unit and check the signal in the Spyder app from the spot you picked. For Wi-Fi setups this tells you if the spot works before you cut anything.
Step by step
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Look at the eave from the attic
Go into the attic with a flashlight and look at the back of the soffit where you plan to drill. Check for electrical cables, junction boxes, plumbing vents, insulation, vent baffles and framing. Keep the hole away from all of them. If you cannot see the area, or the attic is not safe to enter, do not drill. Hire a qualified installer.
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Pick the spot outside
Choose a spot on a solid, unvented part of the soffit, close to the mount and out of the way of rain from the roof edge. Do not cut into a soffit vent, and do not block the vent openings. They let your attic breathe.
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Mark and drill a pilot hole
From the attic side, mark the spot and drill a small pilot hole outward (a thin bit, about 1/8 inch), so you can see exactly where it comes out. Check from the ladder that it is where you want it.
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Open the hole to size
From outside, enlarge the hole with a bit just wide enough for the cable plug, usually around 3/4 inch, but check the plug first. For vinyl or aluminum soffit, drill slowly to avoid cracking. For wood, drill from the outside and stop when the bit breaks through.
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Fit a grommet or bushing
Put a weatherproof grommet or bushing in the hole so the cable does not rub on the edge. Rough edges can cut the jacket over time.
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Thread the cable
Feed the plug through from outside, or from the attic if a helper is outside, and pull gently until you have enough slack inside. Do not force it.
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Leave a drip loop
Just before the cable goes into the building (or into a connector), let it hang in a short U-shaped loop below the entry point, then rise up to it. Rain that runs down the cable then drips off the bottom of the loop and does not follow the cable inside.
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Seal the opening
Seal around the cable outside with exterior-grade sealant. Do not leave a gap. Insects, birds and rain will find it. Tie the cable off inside the attic so its weight does not pull on the plug.
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Run the cable to the injector
Route the cable across the attic floor or along rafters, clear of wiring, insulation hot spots and recessed lights, then down to your injector and router location. If that needs a hole in a ceiling or wall, see the drill-a-hole guide or hire a qualified installer.
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Connect the PoE injector inside
Plug the end of the long cable into the injector port with the lightning bolt. If you use Ethernet, connect the short patch cable from the port with the arrows (the ‹···› port) to your router. For a Wi-Fi-only setup, leave the arrows port empty. Plug the injector into an outlet. Then open the Thalrix Spyder app to finish setup.
Weatherproofing
- Seal every penetration with exterior-grade sealant or a weatherproof grommet.
- Keep a drip loop below the hole.
- Never block soffit vents. Use an unvented section for the hole.
- Insulation around the hole should stay dry and uncompressed. Do not push insulation into the hole.
Some people use
Some customers use these third-party items. They are optional, and the links go to a general search on Amazon, not to a particular product. Thalrix doesn’t make, sell or warranty third-party products, and doesn’t endorse any one brand.
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Weatherproof cable entry grommet or cable gland
A rubber or plastic fitting that fills the gap around a cable where it passes through a wall, soffit or vent. Split styles open up so a cable that already has plugs on can be fitted.
What to look for
- Outdoor or UV-rated material
- A split or slit design if your cable has plugs attached
- A hole size that matches your cable diameter and the hole you drilled (check both in the listing)
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Exterior silicone or polyurethane sealant
A tube of caulk for sealing screw holes and any gap around where the cable enters the building.
What to look for
- Labeled for exterior use and for your surface (siding, brick, stucco, wood)
- Paintable or color-matched, if that matters to you
- Check the label for the cure time and the temperature range for application
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Cable clips for round Cat6
Clips that hold the cable against a wall, fascia or post so it does not flap or sag. They are sized to the cable, so the jacket is held and not crushed.
What to look for
- UV-resistant plastic, sized for the diameter of your cable
- A rounded inside edge. Avoid tight metal staples that can pinch the jacket.
- Nail, screw or adhesive style that suits your surface
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Drip-loop or strain-relief clip
A clip or tie that holds a small downward loop in the cable just before the entry point, and keeps the weight of the cable off the plug.
What to look for
- UV-resistant, outdoor rated
- Fits the diameter of your cable
- Screw-mount for wood or masonry, or a heavy-duty UV-rated cable tie
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Wall plate or pass-through bushing
A bushing or cover plate that finishes the hole on the inside wall, or lines a drilled hole so the cable does not rub on the edge.
What to look for
- A cable pass-through or brush-style opening (not a keystone jack, unless you want to add another connection)
- Matches the diameter of the hole you drilled
- Some are sold as coax or Ethernet wall plates. Make sure the opening is large enough for the plug.
Troubleshooting
- The bit hits something hard or you cannot see where it comes out
- Stop. Back the bit out and look from the attic. Do not keep drilling blind. Choose another spot.
- The soffit cracks
- Use a slower speed and a sharp bit next time. For small cracks, a bead of exterior sealant and a grommet over the hole is often enough. For larger damage, replace the panel.
- The unit does not power on
- Check that the long cable is in the lightning bolt port of the injector and not pinched at the hole or kinked in the attic.
Still stuck? Email support@thalrix.com and tell us which guide you are following.