Run the cable through an attic or soffit vent
If your house has an attic, gable or soffit vent near the mount, the cable can pass through it with no new hole. Use only vents for attic or soffit air. Never use a dryer, bathroom, kitchen, furnace, water heater or other appliance exhaust vent.
What you need
In the box
- 25 ft outdoor-rated Ethernet cable (50/100 ft upgrades available)
- PoE injector
You provide
- An attic, gable or soffit vent with room beside the louvers or screen
- UV-resistant cable ties or clips
- Exterior-grade sealant or a weatherproof grommet
- A flashlight, and a stable ladder
If you need a longer run, use outdoor-rated, pure copper Cat5e or Cat6 cable, up to 300 ft in total.
Test it first
Before you thread the cable through, run it through a door or window, power the unit and check the signal in the Spyder app. For Wi-Fi setups, confirm the spot works before you route anything permanently.
Step by step
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Choose the right vent
Use an attic, gable-end or soffit vent only. Do not use a dryer vent, bathroom or kitchen exhaust, or a furnace, water heater or other appliance flue or intake. Those carry heat, moisture or exhaust gases, and a cable can block them.
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Look at the vent from inside
Check where the cable will come out in the attic. You need a way to reach the injector location, and the cable must stay clear of electrical wiring, light fixtures and recessed lights. Keep it away from hot flues and chimneys, and do not lay it where you will step on it.
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Find a gap that does not block airflow
Pass the cable through an existing gap beside a louver or at the edge of the vent. Do not cut louvers or bend them out of shape. Keep the vent open. A blocked attic vent can cause moisture and heat problems.
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Thread the cable
Feed the cable end through from outside (or from the attic if a helper is outside). The plug is the widest part, so work it through slowly and do not force it or bend the louvers. If it will not fit, use the window or a drilled-hole guide instead.
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Leave a drip loop
Just before the cable goes into the building (or into a connector), let it hang in a short U-shaped loop below the entry point, then rise up to it. Rain that runs down the cable then drips off the bottom of the loop and does not follow the cable inside.
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Secure the cable on both sides
Clip the cable to the wall or fascia outside with UV-resistant clips, and tie it off inside so its weight does not pull on the plug. Keep gentle curves.
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Seal the gap
Fill any open gap around the cable with exterior-grade sealant or fit a weatherproof grommet or cable gland, so rain, insects and birds cannot follow the cable in. Do not seal over the vent openings themselves.
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Run the cable to the injector
From the attic, run the cable down to where your injector and router are. Do this only where you can reach safely. If the route needs a hole through a ceiling or wall, stop and see the drill-a-hole guide, or hire a qualified installer.
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Connect the PoE injector inside
Plug the end of the long cable into the injector port with the lightning bolt. If you use Ethernet, connect the short patch cable from the port with the arrows (the ‹···› port) to your router. For a Wi-Fi-only setup, leave the arrows port empty. Plug the injector into an outlet. Then open the Thalrix Spyder app to finish setup.
Weatherproofing
- Keep a drip loop outside the vent so water drips off before the entry point.
- Seal the gap around the cable, but never block the vent openings.
- A screen or louver is there to keep out insects, birds and water. Leave it in place.
- Use an outdoor-rated cable where it is exposed to sun and rain.
Some people use
Some customers use these third-party items. They are optional, and the links go to a general search on Amazon, not to a particular product. Thalrix doesn’t make, sell or warranty third-party products, and doesn’t endorse any one brand.
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Weatherproof cable entry grommet or cable gland
A rubber or plastic fitting that fills the gap around a cable where it passes through a wall, soffit or vent. Split styles open up so a cable that already has plugs on can be fitted.
What to look for
- Outdoor or UV-rated material
- A split or slit design if your cable has plugs attached
- A hole size that matches your cable diameter and the hole you drilled (check both in the listing)
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Exterior silicone or polyurethane sealant
A tube of caulk for sealing screw holes and any gap around where the cable enters the building.
What to look for
- Labeled for exterior use and for your surface (siding, brick, stucco, wood)
- Paintable or color-matched, if that matters to you
- Check the label for the cure time and the temperature range for application
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Cable clips for round Cat6
Clips that hold the cable against a wall, fascia or post so it does not flap or sag. They are sized to the cable, so the jacket is held and not crushed.
What to look for
- UV-resistant plastic, sized for the diameter of your cable
- A rounded inside edge. Avoid tight metal staples that can pinch the jacket.
- Nail, screw or adhesive style that suits your surface
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Drip-loop or strain-relief clip
A clip or tie that holds a small downward loop in the cable just before the entry point, and keeps the weight of the cable off the plug.
What to look for
- UV-resistant, outdoor rated
- Fits the diameter of your cable
- Screw-mount for wood or masonry, or a heavy-duty UV-rated cable tie
Troubleshooting
- The plug will not fit through the vent
- Do not force or cut the louvers. Try another vent, or use the window pass-through or drilled-hole guide.
- Insects or birds are getting in
- Add sealant or a split grommet around the cable at the gap, and check the vent screen is intact.
- The unit does not power on
- Check that the long cable is in the lightning bolt port of the injector and that the cable is not pinched or kinked at the vent.
Still stuck? Email support@thalrix.com and tell us which guide you are following.