Drill a hole through the wall
A small, sealed hole through an exterior wall is the most permanent way to bring the cable in, and the one to take slowly. The hole is about the size of a cable plug, but walls hide wiring, pipes and gas lines, so check first.
What you need
In the box
- 25 ft outdoor-rated Ethernet cable (50/100 ft upgrades available)
- PoE injector
You provide
- A drill, and a bit long enough for your wall (masonry bit for brick, block or stucco)
- A stud finder, ideally one that also detects live wiring
- Exterior-grade sealant or a weatherproof grommet
- Safety glasses and a dust mask
- A stable ladder, if the hole is above head height
If you need a longer run, use outdoor-rated, pure copper Cat5e or Cat6 cable, up to 300 ft in total.
Test it first
Before you drill, run the cable through a window, power the unit and check the signal in the Spyder app from the spot you picked. For Wi-Fi setups this tells you if the spot works before you make a hole you cannot undo.
Step by step
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Choose the location
Pick a spot near the mount and near where the injector will sit inside. Stay well clear of gas and electric meters, the electrical panel, gas lines, outdoor outlets and lights, dryer vents, hose bibs and air-conditioner lines. If you are drilling near a gas meter or line, check where the line runs, and choose another spot if you are not sure.
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Check the inside of the wall
Inside, look at the matching spot: outlets, switches, light fixtures, plumbing and baseboard heat all mean something is in the wall. Use a stud finder, ideally one that also detects live wiring, and avoid studs and anything it flags. Aim for the space between studs, and never drill into a wall you cannot check. If you are unsure, hire a qualified installer, handyman or low-voltage installer.
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Drill a pilot hole through
Use a long, thin bit (about 1/8 inch) and drill a pilot hole through the wall, angled very slightly downward from inside to outside so water drains out and not in. Go slowly, and stop if you feel the bit hit something unexpected. Push a stiff wire through to confirm where it comes out.
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Open the hole to size
Drill from the outside with a bit just wide enough for the cable plug (often around 3/4 inch, but check the plug). Wood and siding: use a wood or spade bit. Brick, block or stucco: use a masonry bit, low speed, and clear the dust often. Vinyl siding: drill through the siding first, and then the sheathing behind it. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask.
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Line the hole
Fit a weatherproof grommet or bushing so the cable does not rub on the edge of the hole. A sleeve also helps if you want to pull the cable out later.
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Thread the cable
Feed the plug through from outside, then pull a little slack inside. Do not force it. If it will not fit, enlarge the hole slightly or choose the window or vent guide.
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Leave a drip loop
Just before the cable goes into the building (or into a connector), let it hang in a short U-shaped loop below the entry point, then rise up to it. Rain that runs down the cable then drips off the bottom of the loop and does not follow the cable inside.
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Seal inside and out
Seal around the cable on the outside with exterior-grade sealant, and fill any gap on the inside too. A finished wall plate or bushing on the inside looks neat. Insects, drafts and water all find an open hole.
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Connect the PoE injector inside
Plug the end of the long cable into the injector port with the lightning bolt. If you use Ethernet, connect the short patch cable from the port with the arrows (the ‹···› port) to your router. For a Wi-Fi-only setup, leave the arrows port empty. Plug the injector into an outlet. Then open the Thalrix Spyder app to finish setup.
Weatherproofing
- Seal around the cable on the outside with exterior-grade sealant, and close any gap inside.
- Angle the hole slightly downward toward the outside so water drains out and does not run in.
- Keep a drip loop below the hole.
- For brick or stucco, use a sealant rated for masonry.
- In a wall with a vapor barrier or insulation, fill any gap with sealant, not with loose insulation.
Some people use
Some customers use these third-party items. They are optional, and the links go to a general search on Amazon, not to a particular product. Thalrix doesn’t make, sell or warranty third-party products, and doesn’t endorse any one brand.
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Weatherproof cable entry grommet or cable gland
A rubber or plastic fitting that fills the gap around a cable where it passes through a wall, soffit or vent. Split styles open up so a cable that already has plugs on can be fitted.
What to look for
- Outdoor or UV-rated material
- A split or slit design if your cable has plugs attached
- A hole size that matches your cable diameter and the hole you drilled (check both in the listing)
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Exterior silicone or polyurethane sealant
A tube of caulk for sealing screw holes and any gap around where the cable enters the building.
What to look for
- Labeled for exterior use and for your surface (siding, brick, stucco, wood)
- Paintable or color-matched, if that matters to you
- Check the label for the cure time and the temperature range for application
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Wall plate or pass-through bushing
A bushing or cover plate that finishes the hole on the inside wall, or lines a drilled hole so the cable does not rub on the edge.
What to look for
- A cable pass-through or brush-style opening (not a keystone jack, unless you want to add another connection)
- Matches the diameter of the hole you drilled
- Some are sold as coax or Ethernet wall plates. Make sure the opening is large enough for the plug.
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Cable clips for round Cat6
Clips that hold the cable against a wall, fascia or post so it does not flap or sag. They are sized to the cable, so the jacket is held and not crushed.
What to look for
- UV-resistant plastic, sized for the diameter of your cable
- A rounded inside edge. Avoid tight metal staples that can pinch the jacket.
- Nail, screw or adhesive style that suits your surface
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Drip-loop or strain-relief clip
A clip or tie that holds a small downward loop in the cable just before the entry point, and keeps the weight of the cable off the plug.
What to look for
- UV-resistant, outdoor rated
- Fits the diameter of your cable
- Screw-mount for wood or masonry, or a heavy-duty UV-rated cable tie
Troubleshooting
- The drill stops or you hit something
- Stop. Do not push harder. Back the bit out and check what is behind it before you continue, or pick another spot.
- The hole is too big
- A larger grommet or bushing and a bead of exterior sealant will close it. If it is much too big, fill it with sealant and a plug, and drill a new one.
- Water or drafts get in around the cable
- Re-seal the outside with fresh exterior-grade sealant, check the drip loop is below the hole, and fill any gap inside.
Still stuck? Email support@thalrix.com and tell us which guide you are following.