Cable guide

Bring the cable in through a window or door

A flat Cat6 jumper is thin enough to lie under a closed window or door, so no drilling is needed. It is a common choice for renters and for anyone who would rather not make a hole. The tradeoff is that the window or door may not seal or lock as tightly as before.

Difficulty
Easy
Time
10 to 20 minutes

What you need

In the box

  • 25 ft outdoor-rated Ethernet cable (50/100 ft upgrades available)
  • PoE injector
  • Short patch cable

You provide

  • A flat Cat6 window/door Ethernet cable (a third-party item)
  • An RJ45 Ethernet coupler, if you join the flat cable to the outdoor cable (skip it if the flat cable is long enough to replace the last few feet and reaches the unit). Keep the join dry and off the ground
  • A window or door that can still be closed and latched around the cable
  • Weatherstripping foam or tape to fill any gap
  • UV-resistant cable ties or clips

If you need a longer run, use outdoor-rated, pure copper Cat5e or Cat6 cable, up to 300 ft in total.

Test it first

This guide is the easiest way to test a spot, so use it before you drill anywhere. Run the cable through a window, power the unit and check the signal in the Spyder app. If you plan a permanent hole later, you will already know the spot works. This matters most for Wi-Fi setups.

Step by step

  1. Choose the window or door

    Pick one near where the injector and router are, ideally on the same side as the mount. Choose a window you can close and latch around the cable, and one you do not need to open often. Do not use a fire exit or an egress window that must open quickly.

  2. Plan the cable path

    The long outdoor cable runs from the unit to the window. The flat cable crosses the frame. A flat jumper joins to the outdoor cable with an Ethernet coupler, or it can replace the last few feet of cable if its length reaches. Keep the joined connectors dry, out of rain, and off the ground.

  3. Lay the cable across the sill

    Open the window, lay the flat part of the cable flat across the sill or door threshold, with no twists, and close and latch the window slowly. Do not slam it onto the cable. Check the cable is not creased where it crosses the frame.

  4. Fill the gap

    Use weatherstripping foam or tape around the cable to close any gap, so drafts, rain and insects do not come in. Peel it off easily if you move.

  5. Leave a drip loop

    Just before the cable goes into the building (or into a connector), let it hang in a short U-shaped loop below the entry point, then rise up to it. Rain that runs down the cable then drips off the bottom of the loop and does not follow the cable inside.

  6. Secure the outdoor run

    Clip the outdoor cable to the wall or frame with UV-resistant clips, with gentle curves. Make sure it cannot be a trip hazard, and keep it away from places where a lawn mower, pet or door can catch it.

  7. Connect the PoE injector inside

    Plug the end of the long cable into the injector port with the lightning bolt. If you use Ethernet, connect the short patch cable from the port with the arrows (the ‹···› port) to your router. For a Wi-Fi-only setup, leave the arrows port empty. Plug the injector into an outlet. Then open the Thalrix Spyder app to finish setup.

Weatherproofing

  • Most flat window cables are made for indoor use. Keep the flat section and every plug or coupler out of direct rain and sun.
  • Keep the join between the outdoor cable and the flat cable under cover, for example under an eave or in a weatherproof junction box.
  • Use a drip loop so water cannot run along the cable and onto the sill.
  • Fill window gaps with weatherstripping, not sealant, if you rent.

Some people use

Some customers use these third-party items. They are optional, and the links go to a general search on Amazon, not to a particular product. Thalrix doesn’t make, sell or warranty third-party products, and doesn’t endorse any one brand.

  • Flat Cat6 window or door Ethernet cable

    A thin, flat Ethernet jumper made to lie under a closed window or door, so the cable can cross the frame without drilling.

    What to look for

    • Cat6, pure copper conductors (not copper-clad aluminum)
    • Flat profile, roughly 1 to 2 mm thick, with RJ45 plugs on both ends
    • Long enough to reach from outside to your injector, with a little slack
    • Most are made for indoor use. Keep plugs and any joins out of direct rain.
    Search Amazon for flat cat6 window or door ethernet cable (opens in a new tab) →
  • Cable clips for round Cat6

    Clips that hold the cable against a wall, fascia or post so it does not flap or sag. They are sized to the cable, so the jacket is held and not crushed.

    What to look for

    • UV-resistant plastic, sized for the diameter of your cable
    • A rounded inside edge. Avoid tight metal staples that can pinch the jacket.
    • Nail, screw or adhesive style that suits your surface
    Search Amazon for cable clips for round cat6 (opens in a new tab) →
  • Drip-loop or strain-relief clip

    A clip or tie that holds a small downward loop in the cable just before the entry point, and keeps the weight of the cable off the plug.

    What to look for

    • UV-resistant, outdoor rated
    • Fits the diameter of your cable
    • Screw-mount for wood or masonry, or a heavy-duty UV-rated cable tie
    Search Amazon for drip-loop or strain-relief clip (opens in a new tab) →

Troubleshooting

The window will not close or latch
Try a thinner flat cable, or the sliding part of the window instead. If it still will not latch, use the vent or eave guide so the window stays secure.
The unit loses power now and then
Check that the flat cable has no creases or pinch points, and that the coupler and plugs are fully clicked in. Keep the total cable length under 300 ft, and try a shorter run.
Drafts or water come in around the cable
Add weatherstripping foam around the cable, or move the cable to the sill corner where the gap is smaller.

Still stuck? Email support@thalrix.com and tell us which guide you are following.

Also see